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Legendary Goulash

When night falls, arise to satisfy your hunger.

Is your sixth sense on red alert? Ah, that would be the paprika whispering quietly in your ear. In the most mild of undertones, it’s murmuring, “Come now, traveler. Just a nibble.”

Indeed, many newcomers to the border region of Hungary and Romania — where historically, the Principality of Transylvania was located — have fallen under the spell of the area’s magic. And with good reason. The flavors are, shall we say, irresistible.

Castle keepers.

This recipe is inspired by the long history and many cultural influences of the region. Goulash — a stew or soup originally made by herdsmen in a kettle over an open fire — is one of Hungary’s best-known dishes, and it’s also found in Romania.

Local color.

Goulash traces its history back nearly 1,000 years, but the addition of paprika to the stew didn’t happen until several hundred years later when chile peppers reached Europe. At first, chiles were more popular as decorative houseplants, and it took a while for the peppers to be used in cooking and ground into a dried spice.

Today, paprika is the national spice of Hungary and plays a major role in the region’s cooking. Goulash wouldn’t be goulash without paprika, nor would another famous dish in the area, chicken paprikash. The earliest chile peppers in Hungary were hot, but sweeter varieties were later cultivated and are the main source for contemporary Hungarian paprika. You get the savory essence of chile peppers without the heat of other varieties such as habanero or serrano.

Garlic included, just in case.

How many spices can brag about being mentioned in one of the best-known books of all time? When Bram Stoker published his novel Dracula in 1897, he sprinkled in details to intrigue his readers about the mysterious land of Transylvania. The narrator at the beginning of the book, Jonathon Harker, specifically mentions two meals made with paprika and describes having a dinner of paprika hendl (most likely chicken paprikash) in the town of Klausenburgh, now known as Cluj-Napoca, Romania.

Afterwards, he didn’t sleep well because he had bad dreams. He states, “There was a dog howling all night under my window, which may have had something to do with it; or it may have been the paprika.” But it couldn’t have been the paprika because in the morning the narrator gets up and has another paprika dish for breakfast. It was definitely the howling dog, an eerie foreshadowing.

Hot Stuff

Is it hot in here, or is it chile peppers?

When you’re hot you’re hot, and chile peppers are rarely shy about calling attention to themselves. Beloved worldwide and considered an essential ingredient in favorite dishes of all kinds, chile peppers are the go-to vegetable anytime you want to turn up the heat. But wait. Chile peppers aren’t vegetables at all. They’re fruit. And that’s just the start.

Fired up for healthy meals.

Chile peppers belong to the nightshade family, Solanacea, the same family that includes tomatoes, eggplants and potatoes. The specific grouping in this case, however, is the genus Capsicum, and the compound in chile peppers that makes them hot is called capsaicin. Medical researchers are finding more and more benefits of capsaicin, even indications that it supports better heart health. Peppers, both hot and sweet varieties, also boast high levels of vitamins and minerals.

Mild to manic and all points in between.

Your choices are nearly endless with as many as 3000 varieties grown internationally, but a few commonly found chile peppers include the ones shown here. From left to right: Anaheim, güero, poblano, jalapeño, Fresno, serrano, chile de árbol and habanero. Many have nicknames or names from other regions (the güero is also called Caribe, cera wax chile or huchiango), but if you’re shopping for fresh chile peppers and aren’t quite sure what they are, a general rule of thumb is smaller peppers are often hotter.

When you’re at the grocery or farmers market, the best quality peppers will have shiny, unwrinkled skins.

Handling the heat.

The oils of a chile pepper carry the heat, and it takes soap and warm water to effectively clean your hands after working with peppers. For handling very hot peppers such as habaneros, which are among the hottest in the world, some people often wear gloves. And if you’ve ever thought, there has to be a better way to slice and chop peppers, try this method. Keep slicing from the sides, and you’ll leave the stem and core intact for disposal or composting.

Be mine.

Chile peppers transform the ordinary into the amazing. Whether a casual meal or a special occasion, chile peppers chase away winter chills and turn up the heat. Cupid, meet Capsicum. Some things are meant to be.

Hot Chicken Rekindled

Hot enough for you? Dial it in.

Hot chicken has seared its way into national culinary consciousness in a big way. With a legendary heritage in Nashville, this firebrand of the fried chicken world blazes a new trail for creativity in the kitchen. Can the innovation continue? You bet your cayenne it can. And you can fine-tune the flavor you want with a lighter, healthier version that’s every bit as crispy.

Stoking the sizzle, crafting the crunch.

At first glance, hot chicken might seem obvious. Add lots of pepper, then fry the chicken. In fact, however, the ingredients, preparation and cooking technique all play important roles in creating the signature taste. Tangy buttermilk, vinegar-based hot sauce, corn flake crumbs, oven racks — this new take on oven-fried hot chicken keeps it crispy on the outside and moist on the inside with the bold flavors hot chicken is famous for.

Thanks, capsaicin.

Every story has a hero, and the star in the tale of hot chicken is undoubtedly capsaicin, the compound in chile peppers that makes them hot. The recipe calls for three kinds of chile ingredients. The first is Tabasco or a southern-style vinegar-based hot sauce. The other two peppers are ground cayenne and chipotle. Sharing the spotlight are hints of brown sugar, roasted garlic powder and buttermilk. It’s the combination of flavors — some in the breading, some in the sauce — that work together to make this recipe unique. And if you’d like your hot chicken to be well, not so hot, that’s easy. Brush on less sauce at the end. You control the thermostat for this hot chicken.

More hot ideas: the essential sides.

A five alarm feast calls for the right sides to complete the experience. White bread and pickles are standard fare in Nashville, and you’ll also want a pitcher (or two) of iced tea to help your dinner companions keep their cool.

For the perfect slaw, try making your own blend of shredded red cabbage and thinly sliced kale leaves. Add some sliced green onions and black-eyed peas. Then whisk together olive oil, cider vinegar, dried oregano, celery seed, coarse salt and freshly ground pepper for an easy vinaigrette. If that’s not tangy enough, add a squeeze of lemon juice. Dress the slaw a little before you serve it so the cabbage and kale relax.

Grilling confidential

Sunshine, fresh air and fragrant smoke.

There’s nothing better than firing up the grill once temperatures climb. Burgers, ribs and hot dogs are American standards, but lean chicken is a happy partner in this annual celebration of al fresco dining, offering a lighter alternative to conventional grill fare. And with increasingly easy access to locally grown produce, it’s a snap to boost the veggie quotient in your summer menus. Here are some savvy ways to boost your grilling IQ. It’s just a short stroll to the patio to master the art of safe, healthy and pleasurable outdoor suppers.

Fail-safe grilling techniques.

Grilling has developed a bit of a reputation with new research about carcinogens forming from meat fat dripping into flames. But you can minimize your risk and enjoy grilled foods by taking a few extra steps before the coals are glowing (or you turn on the gas). 

Marinate for protection and flavor: Studies show that marinating meat before popping it on the grill not only bumps up the flavor but also reduces carcinogens, possibly because the marinade creates a barrier between the meat’s protein and the heat of the grill. 

A good basic marinade ratio is one part acid (vinegar, citrus juice or yogurt), one part oil and one to two parts aromatics (finely chopped garlic or onion, for instance). Then add salt or soy sauce and herbs, spices and sugar to taste. Chicken needs as little as an hour steeping in the refrigerator or can be prepped well ahead of time. Be sure to reserve some of the fresh marinade separately to brush on after cooking. 

Grill just till done: Boneless chicken breasts and thighs, and bone-in pieces are perfectly portioned for direct heat grilling. The key to success is using an instant-read thermometer and paying close attention as the meat sizzles away. Cooking to exact doneness is healthier and keeps the meat moist. For meltingly tender chicken, especially a halved or butterflied whole bird, use indirect heat. This technique essentially turns the grill into a patio oven, cooking chicken covered and away from direct heat might take a little longer, but it eliminates the chances of splattering fat igniting flames from below.

Avoid flare-ups and charring: A spray bottle of water should be part of your outdoor kitchen, at the ready to douse unruly flames. It helps reduce too much blackening on the meat and keeps strong clouds of smoke at a minimum. 

Scrub the grill grates: Keep a wire grill brush close by and scrape burned bits of food from the grates before and after cooking.

Be a stickler about cleanliness: Always use a clean plate to transport freshly grilled foods to the table, stopping cross-contamination from uncooked meat in its tracks.

Sizzling better-for-you sides.

It’s possible to cook just about anything on the grill, opening up a world of healthy meals that keep you out of a steamy summer kitchen. Toss chunks of sweet bell peppers, thickly sliced eggplant or zucchini with a generous splash of fruity olive oil. A sprinkle of coarse salt and freshly ground pepper is all they need before joining the party on the grill. Char-grill corn-on-the cob or thick wedges of red onion, then chop them up into smoky relishes spiked with vinegar and honey to top burgers or juicy chicken pieces.

Lower heat around the grill edges are tailor-made for fruit like luscious pineapple or halved ripe peaches, which need only a short burst of heat to caramelize their natural sugars. Or grill-toast a grainy baguette, split lengthwise and slathered with garlic butter, to savor alongside a hearty chicken salad or a grilled ratatouille platter, topped with crumbled feta cheese, a few briny olives or capers and a squeeze of fresh lemon.

DIY seasoning blends: maximizing flavor.

Exotic blends of dry spices and herbs fill shelves in the seasoning aisle, providing instantaneous impact to anything you grill. But many commercial rubs are high in salt and sugar, which is fine in moderation but expensive for what you’re buying. It takes only minutes to roast up your own seasoning blends, hitting all the high notes of tastes you really like. Find a good source for bulk herbs and spices, so you can buy them in small quantities that you know are fresh. Take the time to lightly toast whole spices like cumin, mustard seed or coriander, and grind them in a mortar and pestle or a clean coffee mill.

Create your own secret recipe.

A nice coarse rub, generously applied, will form a savory crust on chicken that helps seal in flavor. If you’re grilling boneless chicken, drizzle the meat with a little oil before massaging on a rub. For skin-on pieces, like bone-in thighs, rub a bit of the seasoning under the skin as well as on top.

The possibilities are endless when planning a backyard repast, so embrace the season and broaden your vision of what’s good for the grill. 

Get Fired Up For Grilled Pizza

Take it outside.

Few foods have the universal appeal of pizza. The variations and combinations are endless, and the creative possibilities extend to cooking techniques as well. Who wants to heat up the kitchen on a beautiful summer afternoon or evening? That’s when you want to be outside, grilling with family and friends. Everyone loves pizza, and the same goes for grilling. Combining the two is pure pizza genius.

The right season for ratatouille.

Ratatouille is an all-star veggie mix of onions, garlic, zucchini, tomatoes, eggplant and bell peppers. It’s also a great way to make use of fresh summer produce and pairs perfectly with the lean protein of boneless, skinless chicken breasts. Grill the chicken while you’re roasting the vegetables, and in just 10-15 minutes you’ll be ready to start building your own custom Grilled Ratatouille Chicken Pizzas.

Grill, flip, build.

The single most important step in making a pizza on the grill is pre-cooking the crust on the side you’ll use to layer on the ingredients. All it takes is about four minutes until the crust is golden brown. When it’s ready, just flip it over and then start topping it evenly with the vegetables, chicken, cheese and herbs. That’s it. The veggies and chicken are already cooked, so the final step is melting the cheese and heating the crust until it’s completely done.

Round, square, big, small.

Who says pizzas have to be round? If your grill is rectangular, try rectangular or square pizzas. Or roll out smaller personal pizzas so people can choose their own ingredients. And note, you don’t have to make the pizza dough from scratch. There’s ready-to-bake pizza dough in the refrigerated section of your grocery store, frozen bread dough options and possibly even fresh from a local baker.

How can you top pizza as usual? Get fired up for Grilled Ratatouille Chicken Pizza, and enjoy all-new flavors and possibilities.

Flavor Stuffed

Chicken to the power of infinity.

Mathematically speaking, simple addition doesn’t accurately describe what happens when you combine the ingredients for Chicken Cordon Bleu. True, it’s based on a technique that rolls up chicken, ham, cheese, condiments and herbs or spices. But when everything comes together, the resulting flavor is exponentially greater than any of the original ingredients. And isn’t that yet another reason to love this go-to lean protein? Just Bare Chicken is not only delicious and nutritious. It’s a versatile and creative starting point for dinner tonight.

Ready, set, stuff.

When your ingredients are ready, it’s decision time. One option for combining great tasting ingredients with chicken breasts is to slice horizontally into the thickest part of the meat and make a pocket. Once the pocket is formed (try not to cut through the meat completely), stuff the ingredients inside and sauté the breasts on the stovetop or roast in the oven. Another option, however, is the technique you’ll use for Millennial Chicken Cordon Bleu.

Ready to roll?

There are several advantages to flattening chicken breasts. For starters, meat of equal thickness cooks evenly. But if you go a little farther, carefully using a rolling pin or the flat side of a meat mallet, you can get the chicken to the point where it’s thin enough to wrap up other ingredients. Once you’ve rolled everything together, you can use a toothpick or kitchen twine for more control while the Millennial Chicken Cordon Bleu is cooking. Dipping each roll in an egg wash is great way to add seasoned bread crumbs or panko for a crispy contrast to the melted cheese on the inside.

Adding your touch to the tradition.

Chicken Cordon Bleu originated in America in 1950s and 1960s, but it traces its heritage to roulades or rolled meat dishes found in Europe such as Chicken Kiev. There’s no definitive way to make it. Create you own favorite new combinations by substituting prosciutto, serrano or bacon for deli ham. Swiss cheese is always a popular choice, but Gruyere or Parmesan are delicious as well. And for an additional flavor boost, try Chicken Cordon Bleu with finely chopped mushrooms or shallots. Whatever you include, this is one recipe that locks in the flavor every time.

Eureka!

To the orchard — and beyond.

According to legend, Sir Isaac Newton experienced his famous flash of insight under an apple tree. But an issue he never resolved and a timely one today is nearly as profound as gravity itself. With the change of seasons and thousands of families headed to local orchards, the question is, what do you do with all those apples?

Apples, after all, are everywhere and universally loved. There are more than 7,000 different kinds of apples worldwide, and in America apples grow in all 50 states. Antioxidants. Fiber. Vitamin C. There are plenty of reasons to love apples and find new ways to enjoy this delicious, versatile hallmark of autumn.

Easy as pie, yet so much more.

“New” is the important part. The bushel basket that looks so modest in the great outdoors can suddenly seem to double in size when it’s in the kitchen. Pies, torts and strudels are traditional go-to recipes, but that’s just the start. Apples and cider can play an important role in savory dishes too, even main course entrées.

Savor the possibilities.

When you get to the orchard, the first step is to ask is which varieties are ready for harvest and what they’re best suited for. Examples include McIntosh, Royal Gala, Cortland or Empire, but check with the grower to see if the orchard has any heirloom or local favorites from your region. And back at home, try a melon baller to remove the seeds and save as much of your apples as possible.

Quality from quantity.

Some orchards offer discounted prices on fallen apples, and gathering apples on the ground is a perfect activity for younger children who might not be tall enough to reach higher tree branches. And if those apples have cosmetic blemishes or small bruises, no problem. They’re ideal for apple butter, which you can freeze and serve anytime as easy sides.

Apple lovers, your time is now. Pull on that plaid shirt and grab a basket. If a single apple can redefine science, what can an entire bushel do? Find out this fall.

Big on Squash

Beautiful outside and in.

First things first. Yes, squash is actually classified as a fruit since it has seeds inside. But of course, everyone thinks of it as a vegetable, and that’s fine since, like all vegetables, squash is an excellent addition to everyday meals for its health and nutritional benefits. What’s more, there are hundreds of varieties of squash grown worldwide and probably a dozen delicious kinds at your nearest grocery store. The knock on winter squash might be, well, that tough exterior. But the beautiful colors and patterns do serve a purpose. They hint at the goodness within.

News flash: The seeds are edible too.

Summer squash and winter squash are in the same family of vining plants — Cucurbitaceae — along with gourds, pumpkins and even watermelons and cucumbers. The main difference between summer and winter squash is when they’re picked and how long they can be stored. Harvested at summer’s peak, summer squash have tender, edible skins and typically keep for just a couple weeks. Winter squash have much harder exteriors and are typically harvested in the fall. They’re an ideal veggie during the winter because they can last for months, though all squash taste better closer to harvest.

A good kitchen tool for cutting open a winter squash is a standard 8-inch chef’s knife, but any heavier knife or cleaver will work as long as it’s rigid and won’t bend. Once you’re inside, scoop out the pulp, save the seeds if you want a tasty snack (they’re delicious roasted in the oven with a little olive oil and salt) and get ready to cook the squash.

You can either heat the squash in the oven or microwave until it’s completely soft or just enough to make it easier to remove the exterior. Winter squash can be cubed, chunked, shredded, puréed or sliced, and different varieties have different textures and flavors, varying in their sugar, starch and water content.

Prized for good reason.

People have been planting and growing squash for thousands of years, and it’s one of the Three Sisters — corn, beans and squash — that traditionally sustained many native cultures in Central, South and North America.

Falling temperatures outside are the signal that winter squash season is here. Delicious, nutritious and always versatile, winter squash will keep you warm on the inside all winter long.

Ancient Agriculture

The essence of sustainability.

Living in Arizona as I became a serious cook made me very aware of our easy access to uniquely southwestern ingredients, everyday foods we took for granted. I lived just blocks from a pecan and date farm, my family backyard was filled with citrus and avocado trees, and my high school treks to the bus stop passed pomegranate trees that lined the road. But I also learned about the role traditional crops played in the local economy and regional styles of cooking, reflecting influences from Mexico and native peoples.

Careful and creative farming practices that stretch back into the haze of history still thrive today in the American desert southwest. Crops that are now commonly found around the world — corn, beans, squashes, hot chiles, tomatoes and more — migrated on the waves of New World exploration, but originated with native farmers.

Over centuries the dynamic system of milpa, the Mesoamerican system of rotating complementary food crops, along with medicine and fiber production, has sustained generations of indigenous families. What’s often called the Three Sisters — corn, beans and squash — is a simplified form of milpa which can include 12 to 20 annual plants that grow in a mutually beneficial way and help retain nutrients in the soil.

The remarkable aspect of these growing methods is how they consistently succeeded on such a harsh, arid landscape. An extreme climate with minimal rainfall, with periodic violent rainstorms that threatened to wash crops away, would not be anyone’s idea of a perfect gardening situation. Yet long ago farmers figured out how to make the most of what they had, developing some of the best examples of truly sustainable agriculture.

Original foods of the desert.

The milpa farming cycle is much harder to maintain in this era of large scale agriculture. But southwestern farmers who have access to enough land still try to maintain milpa methods in addition to growing other cash crops and hay for livestock. But beyond corn, squashes (from pumpkins to zucchini and chayote) and beans, many other plants were cultivated by pre-Columbian farmers. Varieties include hot chiles, potatoes, sunflowers (for seeds), tomatoes, tomatillos, avocado, jicama, nopales (from the prickly pear cactus), cassava (or manioc, the source of tapioca) and herbs such as epazote.

A master sauce.

A classic sauce made from hulled pumpkin seeds, fresh tomatillos, hot chiles and leafy cilantro is a choice way to use every bit of the summer and fall harvests. Making its way from central Mexico, it’s a cousin in the popular family of moles, a term that originates from a Nahuatl or Aztec word for sauce. The word salsa also means sauce in Spanish, so whatever you call it, it’s all about buzzing up a luscious condiment for roasted or grilled poultry or meat. In New Mexico, a pipian sauce is often served with wild turkey, but here we’re making a saucy platter of bone-in chicken breasts ready-made for a celebration or Sunday supper.

The key to deepening flavor is toasting the pumpkin seeds (pepitas) well and seeking out the ripest tomatillos. Look for a brilliant limey green color when you peek through their papery husks. It’s best to use smaller ones that tend to have a more tangy-sweet taste.

A healthy spirit in traditional food ways.

So what’s the relevant takeaway from learning about these very old growing methods? Consider the explosion of community gardens. Their renewed emphasis on small, efficiently laid out plots, rainwater recycling, food waste composting and the support and sharing of the abundance of locally grown food all harken back to a time of communal food ways. When farmers are successful so is the entire community. It’s an age-old story of the value of keeping our roots deep in the earth and our fingers in the soil.

American Classic

History repeating itself, one delicious meal at a time.

Was there ever a time chicken pot pies didn’t exist? Food historians trace meat pies with poultry to the Roman era, and in America the dish appears in cookbooks in the early 1800s. Even Laura Ingalls Wilder mentions chicken pies in the Little House on the Prairie book series.

Clearly, some ideas have staying power, and when a meal is this versatile and satisfying, it’s likely chicken pot pies will be bringing warmth to wintry family dinners for another thousand years. With so many variations to enjoy — full-size, individual, casseroles topped with biscuits and dumplings — it’s time to dig in.

Easy as ___.

It’s true that sometimes a chicken pot pie can look like a remarkable feat of kitchen wizardry. But looks can be deceiving. The basics are simply chicken, vegetables, a cream sauce, seasonings and a crust. The chicken comes down to whatever’s most convenient — roasted leftovers, deli rotisserie, poached and more.

Seasonal veggies are always a good choice. Right now root vegetables are coming into their own, and you can vary the amount of chicken and vegetables depending on what’s handy. Make a crust if you like, but pre-made options definitely save time. Just check the refrigerated or frozen section of your grocery store to see what’s available.

Decisions, decisions.

With so many possibilities to choose from, where do you start? The baking dish might be a practical beginning — round or rectangular, smaller for single servings or bigger for a group feast. Family members can weigh in on ingredients for fillings. And the final choice is the best of all. Chicken pot pies can be served hot, frozen for later, reheated on busy weeknights or given as gifts. This is comfort food with a can-do attitude.